Vietnam - Cát Bà Island, the better Ha Long Bay destination
- lorisolan
- Feb 20, 2018
- 7 min read
Of course when you think of Vietnam, your mind instantly goes to the iconic landmark of Ha Long Bay. It is one of the most recognisable places in the world made even more famous by it's recent feature in 2017's Kong: Skull Island.
Ha Long Bay is a UNESCO world heritage site and is located in the Northeast of Vietnam just over 2 hours from the countries capital Hanoi. It is home to thousands of limestone karsts in various shapes and sizes as well as emerald clear waters that have to be seen to be believed.
A community of approximately 1600 people live in the main fishing villages found scattered throughout the bay.
I had heard lots of rumours before visiting that Ha Long Bay town itself had become run down and overcrowded with tourists and locals alike therefore I came across Cát Bà Island which seemed to be the new place to go. Cát Bà is the largest island in Ha Long Bay and is home to lakes, grottos and lots of jungle.
I was there for the first time in March 2017 and returned again this year at the beginning of February. Much like what I had experienced in many other places I visited in Vietnam this time round, there has been a surge of tourism thus resulting in the development of so many new properties and businesses throughout the island as well as lots more construction underway. Clearly many other people had heard about this island too. Luckily it hasn't taken away from the beauty of the place just yet and there seemed to be lots more great restaurants around since last year too.
How to get there:
We arranged a bus with our hotel in Cát Bà (called none other than Cat Ba Island Hotel, original!) to pick us up in Hanoi and bring us directly to the island. For the 2 hour bus journey and 20 minute ferry trip it cost just $7USD.
Places to stay:
There is a whole host of hostels and budget hotels throughout the island that you can nab for just $4 a night upwards. Below options cover off all price ranges and are based on a double room. If you are a backpacker looking to stay in a hostel you will get cheaper prices for a dorm room if available in the property.
$ - Phuong Dong Hotel - $6.50 per night
$$ - Lan Homestay - $18 per night
$$$ - Cat Ba Eco Lodge Resort - $40 per night
$$$$ - Cat Ba Sunrise Resort - $125 per night
Things to do:
1. Book a boat tour
This is the main attraction as obviously everyone wants to see the beauty of the bay. There are a number of different trips you can take from day tours to overnights where you stay on one of the small islands. We booked our day tour with Cat Ba Vision who are voted #3 on Trip Advisor's best boat tour operators.
Many companies will only wander the waters of Lan Ha Bay on the day trips however Cat Ba Vision will not only sail through Lan Ha Bay they also make the trip up to Ha Long Bay as well so you can experience both incredible sights. They omit the popular Monkey Island that most others will visit as they want you to see as much of the bays as possible.
Day tour:
8am: Pick up is at the Cát Bà Vision office right in the centre of the town. A minibus will take you down to Beo Dock
8:10am: Board the boat. You will set off and pass through the fishing villages just 5 minutes from the dock. You will then sail through Lan Ha Bay crossing the border into Ha Long waters for the next 2-3 hours and then they dock at Cam Lagoon for lunch
12:30pm: Full seafood, vietnamese lunch is provided onboard. After lunch you have some time to rest up on top deck or jump off the boat into the beautiful clear, not always warm water
**Make sure you let them know of any dietary requirements when booking the tour
2pm: Kayak at Hang Ca. You have approx. 1.5 - 2 hours to enjoy kayaking through the various caves/grottoes around the Hang Ca area - Dark Cave, Bat Cave, Bright Cave and Monkey Cave
3:45pm: Boat will go to Ba Trai Dao for swimming. In the summer the boat will stop for one hour, however due to the cold waters in winter, they only stop for 10 minutes for photographs
4:30pm: Stop at the biggest fishing farm in the bay for photos
4:45pm: Head back to Beo Dock
Boat tour cost: 475,000VND ($21USD) including lunch
Depart: 8am
Return: 5pm (winter), 6pm (summer)
**Bring extra cash if you want to buy any refreshments onboard. Tea, coffee and beer range from 15,000VND - 30,000VND. There are also a small selection of snacks. Keep an eye out for the ladies who sail around on small boats trying to sell you some goodies from their stall.
There are other tour operators who sail around Lan Ha Bay for a slightly lower price and also visit Monkey Island where you can get off the boat and walk along the beach, see monkeys and do a 1km climb to the top of the island. The views are pretty spectacular and it's always fun to see a monkey in it's natural habitat.
** Be careful of your belongings. I witnessed a monkey steal a can of coke, a can of beer and someones sunglasses.
**If you are looking for a more fun, party tour, then book with Full Moon Party Tours.
2. Cannon Fort
Cannon Fort is located approx. 2.5km outside of the town and is the best place to come for the most astounding panoramic views of the island. It is a steep 10 minute walk to the entrance then a further 20 minutes from there to the top. Early morning or late afternoon is the best time to visit here as the different heights of the sun against the water makes for diverse settings. The rolling mountains against the clear waters is spectacular and the photos will not even do it justice.
Along the trail you will see various viewpoints, a small museum and a tunnel that housed cannons as well as some wildlife and lots of greenery.
Entrance fee: 40,000VND ($1.75USD)
Opening hours: 8am - 5pm
3. Hike through Cat Ba National Park
If you enjoy hiking then Cat Ba National Park is the place for you. There are different hikes depending on the level of difficulty you wish to undertake and lots of the tour operators offer half day or full day tours to the park - Cat Ba Vision have good day options. You can undergo the hikes independently however for the more testing ones, it is advised to hire a guide.
How to get there:
- QH Public bus from the docks in the town (25,000VND per person) 7am, 11am, 3pm
- Take a motorbike or car taxi
- Hire a motorbike (80,000-100,000VND per day)
Tips:
- To bring: suncream, water, a torch (if you would like to visit Trung Trang Cave)
- To wear: a hat, comfortable trainers or hiking boots - not to be done in flip flops
Entrance fee: 40,000VND ($1.75USD)
Opening hours: 7am - 5pm
Places to eat:
1. Yummy Restaurant
Yummy is easily one of the most talked about restaurants in Cat Ba. They have two different locations both just a 450m walk from eachother. We were told by our hotel as soon as we arrived that we should go there for lunch. Their menu is so vast that it was hard to make a decision. We ended up having the vegetable fresh spring rolls, vegetable fried rice and a szechuan tofu dish. All were fresh and really tasty.
2. Oasis Bar and Restaurant
Renowned for it's great atmosphere when the sun goes down, the food is also a reason to visit Oasis. They have a lovely seating area out the front with lots of greenery and twinkle lights and a great view of the harbourfront. Everyone I went to dinner with ordered different types of burgers, cheese, bacon, tofu and I settled on the Pho Ga (Chicken Noodle Soup), one of my favourite Vietnamese dishes ever. It was so tasty from here and only 30,000VND ($1.30USD). While they have the views and the favourable setting you would think that they would charge accordingly however all of their prices are really reasonable for both food and drinks.
3. Sunset House Bar and Restaurant
Located right on the harbourfront, Sunset House Bar is the perfect spot to sit with a beer and watch the sunset right in front of you. I guess that's why they called the bar Sunset. There is a really great happy hour too - after 5pm buy one get one free on beers and cocktails and from 6pm - 8pm it's buy one pizza get the second free. Their pizzas are pretty good however if you are not a fan of a 1cm chunk of cheese ask them for less cheese when ordering. You can't go wrong here really.
4. Bia Hoi (Fresh Beer)
Just near the roundabout by the bridge there is a couple of Bia Hoi restaurants where you can pull up your little plastic table and chair and order some fresh beer for a meer 5,000VND (0.22c) per glass. Bia Hoi is brewed daily and matured for just a short period and then delievered to the many bars that sell it in big steel barrels. It is super light and really refreshing after a long day in the sun.
The Bia Hoi places are good spots to come and chat to some of the local people who you don't see in many other restaurants or bars around Cat Ba. The local boat guides usually come here after their day out on the water before they call it a day. Make sure you order the bags of nuts to go with your fresh beer.
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