Top 5 things to do in Phong Nha

lorisolan
Feb 10, 2018
8 min read

Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park is a UNESCO world heritage site and is located approx. 4 hours from Hue and 9 hours from Hanoi. This park is full of the most astounding natural beauty with giant rock formations, lush greenery and lots of caves. I visited Phong Nha for the first time back in March 2017 and was there again in February of this year. It was hard to believe how much had changed in just a year and all due to how popular this place has become. There were new restaurants, homestays and budget hotels throughout the small strip of the town with lots more construction underway. Despite the numerous new buildings, it still is less touristy than a lot of places in Vietnam making it a great getaway from the usual crowds.

Note: there are only two ATM's in the town which can prove tricky if both are down, so try and get money before coming here. They are improving with places accepting card but better to be safe then sorry.

1. Motorbike around the Ke Bang National Park

Many of the homestays and hostels will have motorbikes for rent. This is the best way to get around the National Park and see as much as possible. You can hire one on your own or book a riders tour where you can enjoy the sites from the back while being driven around.

We hired a bike from Thành Phát Hotel for 100,000VND ($4.50USD) for the day. The 65km loop around the National Park is easy to follow and the roads are mostly in great condition. There is minimal traffic however watch out for some parts of the road that can be sandy, rocky and quite steep.

You can go either way out of the town and it will connect you up to the loop. We headed out of the town towards the Ho Chi Minh Highway and began there. The first stop is the Dark Cave or Hang Toi. We chose not to do this cave as it is more for the adventurous type plus I am claustrophobic so heard it is not ideal if you suffer with this. It is a 6km cave that has no artificial lights unlike the other caves Phong Nha and Paradise Caves.

To get to the Dark Cave you have to zip line across 400meters of rope, the longest zip line in Vietnam and then use your torches from there. You are then immersed into a mud pool where you can play about and get dirty. From there you can swim to clean off and kayak back to the entrance. You can visit the Dark Cave as part of a tour (1 or 2 days) or pay when you arrive.

Entrance Fee:

HIGH SEASON 01/02~15/9: 450,000VND ($20USD) per person

LOW SEASON 16/9~31/1: 250,000VND ($11USD) per person

Includes: Tourist guide (tour supervisor); Boat/kayak; Rescuer; Caving equipment: Helmets, head torches, life jacket; Insurance

Opening hours: 8am - 5pm daily

From the Dark Cave head south and in a couple of kms you’ll arrive at Nuoc Mooc Springs Eco Trail, a natural spring which has been built up with tourist infrastructure such as walkways, bridges and sectioned off swimming areas. The water is a stunning clear bright blue and is refreshingly cold. You can see the water stretch along some parts of the loop so if you don't want to stop and swim it is lovely just to drive by and take some pictures of the gorgeous water and luscious greenery that engulfs it.

Entrance fee: 80,000VND ($3.50USD) per person

Opening hours: 7am - 5pm daily

From here if you are not caved out you will reach Paradise Cave (Thiên Đường Cave). This cave opened in 2010 to the public and is a staggering 31km in length, making it Asias longest dry cave. You can either take the 1.6km walk up to the top which I would recommend as it is a great workout or you can get a buggy ride which brings you 500 meters from the entrance and then it is a steep walk the rest of the way. The entrance is spectacular and the 1km wooden boardwalk down through the cave is a stunning sight. The lighting in this cave is a lot softer than Phong Nha and the stalagmite and stalactite formations are just mind blowing. Avoid the large tour groups and go early in the morning. It is much more peaceful and you can navigate through without having to dodge the many bodies.

Entrance fee: 250,000VND ($11USD), kids under 1.1m go free. Motorbike parking is 5,000VND (0.22c)

Opening hours: 8am - 5pm daily

Next and final stop was the Botanical Gardens. There is a cafe at the entrance so it is perfect to time this visit in with lunch time. There are two trails, 1.5km and 2.5km which can take between one and two hours and both connect to the Gio Waterfall. The diverse flora found here provides a rich habitat for lots of various birds and mammals. Go for a dip in the waterfall to finish off the day of beautiful sight seeing, however note that outside of summer it can be slightly chilly!

Entrance fee: 40,000VND ($1.75USD) per person

Motorbike fee: 5,000 VND (0.22c)

Opening hours: 7am- 4.30pm daily

Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park Loop

2. Phong Nha Cave

Phong Nha Cave is the most well known cave in Phong Nha. It is almost 9km long however tourists only have access to 1.5km of this due to high water levels. The cave was opened to tourists in 1995 and is becoming increasingly popular. You have to take a boat ride to the cave as there is no other way in. The trip there takes approx 30 minutes. There is lots to loo at along the way - the beautiful national park, a cathedral, water buffalo wading through the water and locals going about their daily business of fishing, clearing rubbish or simply doing some laundry. The boat takes you 1.5km in to the cave to see the grottos and the large hanging stalactites overhead. It then turns back and drops you off at the sand area near the entrance to walk up through the cave and out the other side.

After you visit the Phong Nha Cave, the boat guides give you all time to walk up the many steps to Tien Son Cave. The view from the top is impressive and the cave is too even after seeing Phong Nha Cave.

Note: Phone Nha Cave is closed during wet season due to water levels. Best months to visit are from February to mid September

Entrance fee:

150,000VND ($6.50USD) per person for Phong Nha Cave

80,000VND ($3.50USD) per person for Tien Son Cave

Boat fee: 360,000VND ($15USD). This is the cost for the entire boat which can hold up to 14 people. You can choose to have a private boat for your group or share the cost with other visitors. There is always a stream of people so you are never waiting too long and it saves a lot of money this way.

3. Visit The Pub with Cold Beer and Wild Boar Eco Farm

We had heard of a homestay/restaurant called The Pub with Cold Beer so we thought we would take a drive out to see what it was like. The turn off is found approx. 8km outside of Phong Nha town adn you will come across one of the most underdeveloped roads in Vietnam! Eventually, after many treacherous parts of the road (if you could call it that), we arrived. It was a small homestay with lovely views of the Bong Lai Valley, hammocks swinging by the pool table and lots of chairs scattered around. The owners young daughter came and took our beer order as we definitely needed one after the trek here.

The Pub with Cold Beer was discovered in 2010 by the owner of the Phong Nha Farmstay. It was originally a rest stop serving cold beer to workers and loggers on their way home after a long day. Now it has become one of the most 'have to do' attractions in Phong Nha. The best way to get here is by motorbike, bicycle or you can speak with the various hostels in Phong Nha who will arrange a boat trip for you.

If you are hungry you can have a free ranged chicken cooked fresh - super fresh as in it is caught and killed right then and there. You also have the option to do the killing, cleaning and cooking yourself. The Pub with Cold Beer is definitely somewhere to come if you are looking for some serious relaxing downtime.

After our beers we got back on the bike and ventured down further (brave, right!). We reached a sign for Wild Boar Eco Farm and settled on checking it out while we were here. We were greeted by the owner Cuong who was one of the loveliest people we have met in Vietnam. There was no one else there except for a small group of local Vietnamese teenagers. This place was instant heaven. It is a small homestay with minimal rooms and a thatched hut overlooking the Bong Lai Valley. The views were breathtaking.

We perched up on our hammocks and swung aimlessly with our beers for at least 2 hours. We started to get hungry so asked Cuong what food he had. We asked for chicken anything and he went off and his wife cooked up the most delicious feast of the tastiest chicken, garlic morning glory, steamed rice and the most delicious peanut sauce. While we were waiting Cuong was in and out of the kitchen to his garden picking fresh ingredients for our meal. It was one of my most scenic, memorable dishes of our trip to Vietnam. If I am ever back here, I will be staying in this homestay for $8USD per night.

4. Sunset at the Phong Nha Farmstay

Another amazing spot to visit in Phong Nha is the Phong Nha Farmstay. Located 10km along the Ho Chi Minh highway outside of Phong Nha, it is the perfect place to watch the sun go down. Opened in 2010 it is quite new but it a haven for tourists due to the beautiful surroundings. On the left side of the road (depending on which direction you are coming from) is the homestay itself that has a big restaurant and lovely pool area. Across the road, engulfed by paddy fields is a relaxed, casual area with large mosaic tiled stone high tables, a bar, a pool table and best of all exceptional views. The food offering is quite extensive with different cuisines types. We had our dinner then got a bottle of Vietnam's only locally produced wine - Vang Dalat. For 100,000VND ($4.50USD) it is cheap and definitely cheerful.

Phong Nha town to Phong Nha Farmstay

5. Food, drinks and live music at Easy Tiger Hostel

If you are a social butterfly or just love a great atmosphere then Easy Tiger Hostel is the place to go. This hostel is one of the best I have seen on my travels. Apart from the super location right in the heart of Phong Nha town, they offer great tours, lots of information on Phong Nha and what to do and are happy to help lodgers and visitors alike. There is a free information session held every morning at 9am that everyone is welcome to.

They have a pool out the back for the hot days and light big fires during the colder season. There are five separate areas, a beer garden right at the front entrance, pool tables and TV's at reception, benches in by the bar, a more casual area to the left of the bar with tyres for chairs and large, round wooden tables and of course the pool area.

The food choice is exceptional catering for vegetarians, vegans and gluten frees too. Every night they have live entertainment until 11pm. The bar staff bring around free shots at some stage throughout the evening and the happy hour goes on from 5pm till late offering different drinks choices each hour. With your stay here you get one free drink each night as well.

All of this for 180,000VND ($8USD) per person per night for a dorm room with en suites.